If an RV refrigerator isn't running efficiently, in many cases it's something the owner did that affected its performance.

We can help the refrigerator do a better job. First and foremost, the RV must be fairly level for the refrigerator to operate properly. Older RV refrigerators required more precise leveling, but even newer models must be close to level for optimum performance. Over time, a cooling unit operated out of level will be permanently damaged. Traveling with the refrigerator operating will not cause problems because the liquids and gases in the cooling unit are constantly moving around. They don't collect and stay in areas of the cooling unit like they can in a stationary, out of level refrigerator.

The initial cool down process can take four to six hours. You should turn the refrigerator on the day before you plan to leave. When you put in the food, make sure it's already cold. Frozen food should already be frozen. Putting cold food in the refrigerator, rather than adding warm food, makes for less work for the refrigerator. One common mistake is to over pack a refrigerator. There must be space between the foods to allow for air to circulate throughout the compartment. On most RV trips, you will have access to a store to add to your food supply. So two to three day's worth should be enough.

To assist with air circulation you can purchase an inexpensive, battery operated refrigerator fan. Put the batteries in and place the fan in the front of the refrigerator compartment blowing up. Cold air drops and warm air rises. The fan will improve the efficiency by circulating the air and it will reduce the initial cool down time by half.

The heat created by the cooling process is vented behind the refrigerator. Air enters through the outside lower refrigerator vent and helps to draft the hot air out through the roof vent. Periodically inspect the back of the refrigerator and the roof vent for any obstructions like bird nests, leaves or other debris that might prevent the heat from escaping.

TO KEEP THE REFRIGERATOR OPERATING EFFICIENTLY in the LP gas mode, perform some routine maintenance. Remove the outside lower vent cover to access the back of the refrigerator. With the refrigerator turned off, ensure all connections are clean and tight. Turn the refrigerator on in the LP gas mode and look at the flame. If it's burning poorly, or is yellow-colored, or if the refrigerator isn’t operating properly in the gas mode it’s possible that the baffle inside the flue is covered with soot.

Soot, rust and other debris can fall down and obstruct the burner assembly. When this happens it's necessary to clean the flue and the burner assembly. Turn the refrigerator off again and locate the burner. Directly above the burner is the flue. The baffle is inside the flue. Wear a pair of safety glasses and use an air compressor to blow air up into the flue. After the flue is clean use the compressed air to remove any debris from the outside refrigerator compartment. Now, turn the refrigerator on in the LP gas mode to make sure it is working properly. Look for the bright blue flame. For a thorough cleaning of the flue and baffle it will be necessary to have your RV dealer do it for you. While it’s there have them to do an LP gas pressure test, too.

Another good idea is to install a 12 volt, thermostatically controlled refrigerator vent fan at the back of the refrigerator or at the top of the roof vent to assist with drafting the hot air away from the refrigerator. If you are mechanically inclined these fans are fairly easy to install, or you can have your RV dealer install one for you. Either way it’s worth it. The fan removes the heat built up behind the refrigerator improving the refrigerators performance by up to 40 percent.

Outside temperature affects the operation and efficiency of your RV refrigerator. When it’s cold outside you can lower the temperature setting and when it’s hot you can raise the setting. Some refrigerators are preset by the manufacturer. Extremely hot weather will directly affect the refrigerators efficiency. When it’s really hot outside try parking your RV with the refrigerator side in the shade. Periodically inspect and clean the refrigerator door gaskets. Check them for a good seal. Place a dollar bill behind the seal and close the door. It should stay there and not drop. When you try to pull it out there should be some resistance felt. Do this in several different places and have any damaged seals replaced.

Try to limit the amount of times you open the refrigerator or freezer doors and the length of time you leave the doors open. Every time the door is opened it loses a few degrees of heat. On a hot summer day it won’t take long to lose all of its cooling capacity. Last but not least you should always have a thermostat in the food compartment. Food will begin to spoil at temperatures above 40 degrees.

RV absorption refrigerators do a great job for RVers. They will do an even better job, and last longer, if we apply these simple tips to make their job easier and less demanding.

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Dear Mark,
We are considering buying a Winnebago Sightseer 35J with two roof air conditioners. But the coach only has 30-amp service with an Onan 5.5 KW generator. Can these two air conditioners run at the same time with only 30 amps?

Mark Says: Most RV manufacturers use some type of energy management system so both roof air conditioners can operate at the same time on a 30-amp system. Our 2006 Bounder 35E is a good example. It will power up one A/C and then the other. Once they are both running it can sense if there's a requirement for more power placed on the system, like somebody making a pot of coffee, and it will shut one A/C down or both depending on the power requirement. When there is no longer a requirement the A/C units automatically start back up.

Many manufacturers use smaller BTU air conditioners. It was no good to have two 15,000 BTU units if you can only run one, so now they might use a 13,500 and an 11,000 BTU unit which a 30-amp system can run at the same time.

Basically what I am saying is most of today's manufacturers offer some type of power management system to operate both A/C units with a 30-amp system. On the other hand most manufacturers have a built-in system to prevent you from using both A/C units and attempt to use the microwave or other power consuming appliance.

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QUESTION: I have a 27 foot Dutchman travel trailer that I bought new in 2002. To date I have blown out seven tires. I am now on Goodyear radials having replaced the O.E. Carlyle tires. My question is this: Do tires on a trailer require balancing and alignment like a car? I just find it amazing that I have had that many blowouts.

Mark Says: My first thought would be that the tires are overloaded. If you haven't done it yet, take the trailer to a set of scales where you can weigh each wheel position separately. Compare the weights to the tire weight rating when they are inflated properly.

I have heard many people complain about Carlyle tires, but seven blowouts indicates some other type of problem. Balancing the tires cannot hurt but isn't absolutely necessary. Alignment for a trailer is usually related to one of the axles shifting over. If you stand in front of, and then behind the trailer look to see if both axles (tires) are aligned with each other. If one of the tires sticks out farther than the other take it in to have it checked out.

I still don't think this is what is causing the problem. Weigh the wheel positions and try distributing any weight in the trailer so none of the tires are overloaded. Another important factor is to make sure you are using replacement tires designed specifically for trailers. The sidewalls are designed to hold up to the twisting and flexing that occurs when you make turns etc.


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If you already have the vehicle that you plan to tow with, you need to find a trailer that is within the weight range of your vehicle. This was a common problem I ran into during my days as an RV sales manager. Customers would come in to purchase a travel trailer only to find out that their tow vehicle did not have a very good tow rating. It can be extremely frustrating to find the perfect travel trailer or fifth wheel and then be told that you can't tow it. On the other hand it can be worse if you go to a less reputable RV dealer and the sales person tells you that you can tow it! This happens every day, and this is why you need to be armed with the right information before you buy.

It is not my intention to upset any RV dealers, but if you go to a dealership and they don't ask you for information about the tow vehicle, it would be wise to go elsewhere. The first question my salespeople were required to ask was if you already had a tow vehicle. If so, they would look in our towing book and identify the tow capacity for your particular vehicle. Then we would inform you of your options. We lost many sales because the customer could not safely pull the camper they wanted, but we did not allow them to jeopardize themselves or their family.

If you don't already have the tow vehicle, it's a good idea to find the camper you want first and then buy a vehicle that is capable of safely towing it. I will caution you again, be careful if you listen to the salesperson at the auto dealership. They are only interested in selling you a vehicle, and a large percentage of salespeople do not understand vehicle tow ratings. Call a reputable RV dealer and ask them to check the vehicles tow rating before you buy it.

I once had a customer that found the camper they wanted and went to purchase a new truck. The salesperson told him the truck could tow 10,000 pounds. He went on to show my customer where 10,000 pounds was stamped into the hitch receiver on the back of the truck. The 10,000 pounds stamped in the receiver is what the receiver itself is rated for. It has absolutely nothing to do with the tow rating for the truck. My customer bought the truck and brought it to us to have the brake control and wiring done. I looked the truck up in my book and it was rated to tow 5,400 pounds. The camper weighed 6,000 pounds. I could write a book about stories like this, but our goal is to prevent this from happening to you.

There are many things to consider before you buy a tow vehicle. How often do you plan to tow? Where do you plan to tow? Is this vehicle going to be used strictly for towing, or will you be using it for everyday driving too? Are you interested in a pop-up, travel trailer or fifth wheel? How much does the camper you want weigh? Once you have answered these questions you can start looking for that perfect tow vehicle.

The manufacturer determines a vehicles tow rating. It is the maximum amount of weight that the vehicle can safely tow. The manufacturer takes many factors into consideration when determining a tow rating. They look at the vehicles engine size, transmission, axle ratio, chassis, suspension, brakes, tires, cooling capacity and many other things. Now this may all sound complicated, but the bottom line is determining how much can the vehicle safely tow. Do not assume that just because you're buying a truck it can tow a lot of weight. Most manufacturers offer vehicles with tow packages. A tow package upgrades the vehicles suspension, brakes, tires, and cooling system. They also add items like engine and transmission oil coolers to protect the vehicles major components when you are towing.

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